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Fusion is the devil’s cuisine. I’ve been saying that for a long time. And I’ve believed it ever since those dark days of my own forays into the seductive world of galangal, lemongrass and frisee.
A chef has to be an absolute genius to make any sort of fusion work — and genius is one of the many things I’ve never been. But this week, I’m taking a look at the opposite side of fusion — a pure expression of one of the cuisines so often abused by the industry’s fusers, deconstructionists and world-food enthusiasts.
I’ve got Thai food on tap this week, at US Thai in Edgewater. And this is one you’re not going to want to miss. Look for the full review on this web site tomorrow afternoon, or in the February 15 issue. — Jason Sheehan
