Soul on Ice

Henry Coleman, owner and head cook at the new Coleman’s Soul Food (which moved into the old home of Ethel’s House of Soul shortly after it closed in January), knows from Detroit soul food, Detroit comfort food, Detroit’s streetside, slap-dash, eat-while walking cuisine. He’s a veteran lunch-wagon cook from that…

Win Some/Lose Some

While I might not have had much luck at this year’s James Beard Awards, it’s a damn good thing that I wasn’t the only one from our little square state in Manhattan this past weekend. As a matter of fact, Colorado was much better represented at the Chef Awards (which…

Annie’s Moves On

I don’t remember the first time I ate at Annie’s Café, but I’m guessing it was 1981 or 1982, shortly after the restaurant opened across the street from my dad’s office at the University of Colorado medical school. My mom recalls being so happy that there was a family place…

Milking It: Rice Krispies Treats

Rice Krispies Treats Kellogg’s Rating: Three spoons out of four Cereal description: The classic Rice Krispies shape — a slightly puffed rice kernel — is still the foundation of Rice Krispies Treats, the cereal spinoff of a marshmallow-laden recipe beloved by people who know more about eating than cooking. But…

Road Food

Just a few hours after returning from the James Beard Awards in Manhattan, sans medal, to Laura’s folk’s house in the Philadelphia suburbs, we found ourselves once again back in our rental car and hightailing it for the heart of the City of Brotherly Love. The Association of Alternative Newsweeklies…

Beard House Blues

So, yeah….As has already been announced, I tanked it at the James Beard Awards. Didn’t win, lost it in the clutch, came home empty-handed (again…). But you know what? That’s cool for a couple of different reasons. For one, it was just an honor to be nominated and blah blah…

James Beard Awards Update

Five years ago, when Jason Sheehan had not yet worked at Westword a year, he won the James Beard Foundation award for reviewing — the biggest award around for a food critic. This year he was again a finalist for the prize, but at last night’s awards ceremony in New…

Doughnut Donation to Your Tummy

I am not attempting to enter the heated debate on doughnut store superiority, but rather to present a fact: free doughnuts are the best doughnuts. Today Krispy Kreme is celebrating National Doughnut Day by giving each customer a complimentary doughnut of their choice. As an employee who patiently answered my…

Candy Girls: Pop Rocks Milk Chocolate Bar

“Melts on your tongue, pops in your mouth” First reactions: At first glance, the Pop Rocks Milk Chocolate Bar appears just like a Crunch bar. You can see what look like crunchy bits of rice buried inside the milk chocolate, but the truth of those innocent looking morsels soon becomes…

Bursting Sheehan’s Bubble

A condensed version of Justin Warner’s letter about Jason Sheehan’s talents — or lack thereof — is published in the June 5 letters column. But the entire letter was so tasty that we present it here, uncut and unedited: Jason Sheehan: I write in regards to my disgust of your…

Chicago

With every meal we eat, we betray ourselves. Our politics and our personal history, our deepest longings, our most private loves and hates — all of this is laid bare every time we open our mouths and shove something in. Think about it. What beer do you drink when the…

Wash Park Grille

I’m tired of sliders. Seriously, they were cool for about a minute two years ago when a few brave chefs decided to resurrect them as jewel-box examples of haute-gone-south lowbrow chic. Then they were amusing for a few months as everyone scrambled to add them. Kobe sliders. Barbecue sliders. Truffled…

Welcome to the Windy City

The newspapers? Chicago Tribunes. The tattered phone books? Chicagoland area directories. The game on the radio is the Cubs or the Bears and the tin stars in the display case are all replicas of Chicago police badges. Chicago is really less a restaurant than a small, cramped, cluttered and plastic-wrapped…

Ray Loves Terrorists, Wants To Make Them Pie

I can’t believe that this is twice in a single week that I have to stand up for people or institutions that I can’t stand simply because they are being attacked by people or institutions that I can stand even less. First it was Starbucks, the victim of an attack…

Milking It: Wild Animal Crunch

Wild Animal Crunch Kellogg’s Rating: One and a half spoons out of four Cereal description: The cereal pieces, a mash-up of oat, wheat and corn flour that suggests the manufacturing process used to make plywood, are tan in hue with light brown streaks running through them. Shape-wide, they’re meant to…

King Aldo

A few weeks ago, I was lucky enough to have the greatest meal of my (relatively) young life at Eric Ripert’s Manhattan restaurant, Le Bernardin. There was me, my buddy East Coast Dave, Dave’s fiancé Nikki from Hawaii, and it was, in a word, absofuckinglutelymindblowinglyawesome. I wrote about said dinner…

Seafood, Eat It

The owners of Prime 121 at 121 Clayton Lane, a spot formerly (and briefly) occupied by Bob’s Steak and Chop House, filed for Chapter 11 bankruptcy reorganization last month. When I reviewed it last fall, I was impressed by the service, not so much by the steak and trimmings. Now…

Slutbucks

I am no fan of Starbucks. Certainly not now that I have had to kick my lifelong coffee habit, but even when I was putting down several pots of coffee a day, it took an event of truly apocalyptic proportion to get me into any of the estimated 4 billion…

Second Act for Mark Tarbell

Almost since the day Mark Tarbell, one of the darlings of the Arizona restaurant scene, opened The Oven in Belmar, there have been rumors that he would soon open a second restaurant in Denver. There have been “Coming Soon” ads, stories about plans and promises. There have been suggestions of…

Cheap Eats: Mustard’s Last Stand

Being vegetarian, I often find that certain decadent and fat-laden food options are generally off limits to me. Sure, you can smother fries in cheese and eat greasy pizza, but giant ½ pound beef burgers and chili dogs are not usually available in tofu/seitan/TVP versions…

Candy Girls: Dietrich’s Chocolate & Espresso

This week, the Candy Girls went out on assignment to Dietrich’s at 1734 East Evans Avenue in the University area. Having heard of the shop’s rich, decadent treats, we had to do a sampling of all of the fresh, homemade chocolates that owner Erich Dietrich makes at his store. Dietrich…

Bono’s Pit Bar-B-Q

I can be bought with an easy smile and a pint of sweet tea. When someone has a grill going in my neighborhood, I will sometimes sit out on my porch just to smell the air. My wife has often told me that I’ve never met a barbecue restaurant I…