Lights are out at BB O’Reilley’s

Brad Brallier gave it a good shot with BB O’Reilley’s Bar & Grille, which took over the space formerly occupied by Your Neighborhood Grille at 1500 West Littleton Boulevard in the Woodlawn Shopping Center. But the neighborhood watering hole dried up in less than six months…

Ondo’s on schedule for a mid-November opening

While Jason Sheehan is busy building a dream team staff for Ondo’s, the tapas restaurant taking over the subterranean space at 250 Steele Street, owner Curt Steinbecker, who trained with his wife, Deicy, at the Escuela de Cocina Luis Irizar, is just trying to get his restaurant open. With any…

Ask the Critic: Going green, doing (and eating) good

I spent the weekend in Austin, much of it arguing the politics of food with very intelligent writers who fall everywhere along the eating spectrum — from Jonathan Safran Foer, who is a born-again vegetarian, and James McWilliams, who also goes the green route, to Novella Carpenter, who raises and…

Will the chaos finally end for Kaos on November 9?

Just got off the phone with Jon Edwards, one of the owners of Kaos, a new take-out pizzeria that was skedded to open months ago at 1439 South Pearl Street, just a block or so from Gaia Bistro. That’s the excellent breakfast and lunch cafe that Edwards runs with Patrick…

Ugly Betty, looking good at Lola

There wasn’t a Balloon Boy in sight, but Ugly Betty would no doubt have blown away any Heene outfit at Saturday’s Halloween costume contest at Lola. Perhaps in deference to the site of the contest, the coastal Mexican restaurant located at 1575 Boulder Street, the contestants included several food-related get-ups…

Guess where I’m eating?

Denver has about a million places where a man of little means can find himself a big-ass burrito swimming in some sort of chile. I wouldn’t say that Denver was necessarily built on big burritos (because, as everyone knows, Denver was really built on moonshine, whores and the good fortune…

Restaurant Roll Call for October

RESTAURANTS OPENING IN OCTOBER: CY Steak, 1222 Glenarm Place Illegal Pete’s, 1744 East Evans Avenue Jack-N-Grill, 2630 West Belleview Avenue, Littleton Mangiamo Pronto!, 1601 17th Street Noodles & Company, 1737 East Evans Avenue Oskar Blues Home Made Liquids and Solids, 1555 South Hover Street, Longmont Patsy’s Pizza, 3651 Navajo Street…

Cafe Society: Week in review

What you might have missed this week on Cafe Society while you were counting the minutes to Zolo Southwestern Grill’s 105 days of tequila. While we locals aren’t pleased that the Rockies blew another season of baseball, we understand that not everyone is a fan of the purple and black…

Guess where I’m eating?

Denver has a titillating new charcuterie contender in town. And for better or worse, it comes with a side of fleshy skin. You can double the pleasure, double the fun if you know where to go.Well?…

Sugar High: Torta di Ricotta at Venue

Perfect apple desserts are a rarity. Too often, high expectations are met with watery fruit, a flavorless crust or cloying sweetness. Perfection, however, is attainable, and if that’s what you’re seeking in an apple tart, look no further than the torta di ricotta at Venue, 3609 West 32nd Avenue.  …

Staffing Up: My dream team for Ondo’s

Yesterday I kicked off “Staffing Up,” with some free advice for how Mark & Isabella can get its act together. But the idea doesn’t have to be confined to restaurants that need a swift, motivating kick in the ass; reading through these blog posts for the last few days, I…

Staffing Up: A new concept for Mark & Isabella

Last week, my buddy Dave Herrera over at Backbeat debuted a new bloggity thingamajig called Recast, in which he and his guys redo the soundtracks of existing movies. First one? Blade Runner — one of the greatest movies of all time, and one with a soundtrack that already kicks some…

James Mazzio has a new ooh la la chef gig at Le Chateau

“I’ve just become the chef of Le Chateau,” writes James Mazzio, one-time Food & Wine magazine Best New Chef winner and until recently the exec at the Icehouse Tavern, 1801 Wynkoop Street. But that stint ended early this month when the “high-powered” Mazzio was turned loose by powers higher than…

Part two: Chef and Tell with Chad Clevenger

This is part two of Lori Midson’s interview with Chad Clevenger, exec chef of Mel’s Bar and Grill. You can read part one of Midson’s interview with Clevenger here. Rules of conduct in your kitchen: Work clean, work quiet, ask questions if you don’t know the answer, respect your team,…

Gourmet hot dogs and sausages coming soon to Broadway and Larimer

Just got off the phone with Bill Feid, a Denver entrepreneur who’s never done a restaurant, but has firm plans in place to open Billy’s, a gourmet hot dog and sausage shack, at 2445 Larimer Street in mid-November. According to Feid, this isn’t going to be your average dog house…

Counting down to tapas at Ondo’s

There are some restaurants I talk about a lot. There are others that I talk about hardly at all. And one of the very few places that I talk about continuously (some would say obsessively) isn’t even open yet. It’s Ondo’s. Ah, Ondo’s….I’ve been dreaming about having a new tapas…

Chili Verde serves nearly perfect Pueblan food

Ceviche is a nearly perfect dish — simple and organic and beautifully balanced, using the strengths of every single ingredient to subtly alter every other; a dish virtually unchanged through generations of cooks, both amateur and professional. No one knows for sure where ceviche was invented, only that it most…

Stella Cordova is gone, but Chubby’s endures

After my last meal at Chili Verde, a new and very traditional Mexican restaurant that was about to get its liquor license, I stopped by Chubby’s, a forty-year-old Mexican joint that never has (and never will) serve a drop. They’re in the same northwest Denver neighborhood, yet fill very different…

Soldiering on through the snow at Frasca

This just in from the boys at Frasca: “Despite receiving over 14 inches of snow (and counting…) on Frasca’s patio today, we’ll still be open this evening for regular dinner service. We hope to see you soon.” Two feet of snow. More on the way. But what do chefs do?…

Getting in early at Il Posto

I got a call from chef Andrea Frizzi yesterday, thanking me for including his little 17th Avenue restaurant in my list of Denver’s best Italian spots, and then letting me know that he’ll soon add lunch service at Il Posto. Oh, and not just any lunch. I checked out the…