In mourning over a meal at Mark & Isabella

I was out eating when I heard that my father had died. Drinking, actually. But the place where I was — standing on a patio in a warm rain at ten o’clock at night, surrounded by new friends, a stiff whiskey in my hand — served food, too, and nothing…

West End Tavern delivers from any direction

Dave Query and I have not always seen eye to eye. Actually, for a long time, Query (boss of the Big Red F restaurant group, which owns Jax, Lola and the West End Tavern, among other properties) just flat hated my punk ass. And I was none too fond of…

New menu for Chad Clevenger at Mel’s

I had a rough time of it when last I found myself under chef Chad Clevenger’s care at Mel’s Restaurant in Greenwood Village. But my experience was nothing compared to how Clevenger and his crew must’ve felt once my review of the restaurant came out. Still, I have to give…

Guess where I’m eating? Before and after

Jonesy’s EatBar has some great fries. The mac-and-cheese fries in particular, served with a nice sprinkling of bacon on top. At the moment, they are probably my favorite fries in the city. The picture above? It shows my second favorite fries in the city — smothered with green chile, topped…

Chef and Tell with Sean Kelly of LoHi SteakBar

“Nothing that goes on my menus gets there by accident,” insists Sean Kelly, executive chef of LoHi SteakBar, the packed-to-the-rafters restaurant and watering hole that opened in June in Highland. “I have a tendency to make sure that everything is researched, and I try to be as true as possible…

What’s cooking: Pete Marczyk moves the earth with mushrooms

Pete Marczyk and Barbara Macfarlane do not leave their work behind when they leave Marczyk Fine Foods and head for their great old Denver house with the big, new kitchen. They often bring some of their market’s choicest ingredients home with them, and cook up a feast. This is the…

Guess where I’m eating?

So far as I know, there’s exactly one restaurant in the state whose entire menu is devoted to food from Sri Lanka. It’s a cuisine that’s heavily influenced by Portuguese and Dutch colonies, and somewhat similar to Indian culinary traditions — except that where Indians cook with ghee and yogurt,…

Tonight: Indulge in five courses at Argyll GastroPub

Head over to Robert Thompson’s Argyll GastroPub, 2700 East Third Avenue, at 7 p.m. tonight for a five-course wine dinner featuring an array of truly decadent dishes paired with the perfect wines. Menu items include Goose Point oysters, a peach-and-goat-cheese tart, smoked trout, autumn salad, monkfish, lamb chops and a…

It gets worse: A week in Italian food

Of all the entrees, only one was even vaguely edible: a piece of swordfish, nicely cooked, napped with a chive crème fraiche – and mounted on a ratatouille that was like mush and bled oil like it’d been knifed on its way out of the kitchen. But still, somewhere in…

Visiting dietitians keep special requests to a minimum while in Denver

The annual American Dietetic Association Food & Nutrition Conference & Expo is drawing to a close in Denver. One of the world’s largest organizations of food and nutrition professionals, the ADA focuses on the latest food-service trends and nutrition science information. Naturally, I was curious to find out if convention…

Pho Bowlevard set to bowl over Littleton

Okay, so the name is downright silly, and the curious location — a sketchy strip mall with more vacancies than occupancies — doesn’t appear to be prime real estate for a new restaurant, but the sign is up at 5950 South Platte Boulevard for Pho Bowlevard Vietnamese Grill.According to owners…

What the crappy treats you give out on Halloween say about you

At first, handing out lame treats on Halloween seems like a victimless crime. Kids are already getting bags of candy as it is, so what’s the harm with one fewer awesome treat. Part of the harm is that they’re not the victim, really–you are. You, your house, your cars, your…

Lenny’s on Lincoln offers curbside service

The staffers at Lenny’s Sub Shop at 726 Lincoln Street watch a lot of traffic roll by their windows every day, especially at rush hour, when that traffic rolls very slowly. So what did these enterprising sandwich makers do? They set up a little curbside stand where a Lenny’s employee…

Tonight: Duo’s last farm dinner of the season

Tonight marks the last in a series of farm dinners at Duo, 2413 West 32nd Avenue, the Highland restaurant where John Broening was cooking before unleashing the kitchen at Olivea, Duo’s sister restaurant at 719 East 17th Avenue. But tonight, Broening will be back in his former galley, now run…

Breaking: Deluxe/Delite on fire. Really, ON FIRE

Actually, I guess it’s probably not on fire any more. But Deluxe and Delite, Dylan Moore’s two excellent, side-by-side operations at 30 and 32 South Broadway, respectively, were on fire an hour or so ago. Both places took a hit. By the time I got there, the flames were gone…

Randolph’s new fall menu chosen by the people

If you want people to eat at your restaurant, why not have them pick the menu? That was the idea behind the new fall menu debuting tonight at Randolph’s Restaurant and Bar at the Warwick Denver Hotel. “We thought the people who came to select the menu would also be…

Off-duty cop working door at Hai Bar over the weekend

A uniformed off-duty cop was working the door at Hai Bar, at 3600 West 32nd Avenue, on Saturday night. It wasn’t entirely surprising, considering the altercation that occured at the 3,000-square-foot lounge below Sushi Hai two weeks ago, when a fight allegedly broke out and spilled out to the street,…

Cook’s Shelf: Farm City

Novella Carpenter is a badass. No, seriously. Bad. Ass. And her book, Farm City: The Education of an Urban Farmer, is basically a chronicle of her bad-assery. What is it that makes her so tough? What is it that makes me heart her big time? Simple. She became a farmer…

Ask the Critic: The nasty bits

We’re dealing here with the nasty bits: the offal, the often-maligned parts of cows, pigs and other critters that get thrown aside by more easily grossed-out foodies who think that only the best, most pricey parts of animals are worth sinking their teeth into. Late last week, I heard from…

What are Denver’s most haunted restaurant locations?

Peter Boyles is holding his annual haunted house event at Yak and Yeti, the Nepalese restaurant that took over the former home of the Cheshire Cat Brewpub and Restaurant, at 7803 Ralston Road in Arvada. (There’s a second Yak and Yeti at 8665 Sheridan in Westminster.) The ghosts on Ralston…