First off, thanks to everyone for their suggestions on where I should eat my last review dinner in Denver. The comments have been excellent, the suggestions helpful, and the current leader seems to be Casa Bonita — which I assume is rising fast because so many of you just want…
She is the culinary genius behind Chez Panisse in Berkeley. Along with friend and chef Jeremiah Tower, she pioneered California Cuisine and has had a heavy influence in promoting sustainable, locally grown food sources for restaurants. Her Chez Panisse Foundation introduced the Edible Schoolyard, a program that provides funding and…
Italians know how to do a lot of things right. They make sexy cars, damn good wine and great cheeses. Most important, they know how to celebrate Christmas Eve. On the night referred to as “the vigil” or La Vigilia, Italian-American families gorge themselves on seven-course seafood feasts. It’s typically…
In 1992, Goose Sorensen, then 23, was living in Casper, a fine Wyoming town with bars and brawls and women, but there was something missing, something that Sorensen was longing to have but didn’t. That something was — wait for it — Bennigan’s. “I totally wanted to cook at Bennigan’s,…
Every day that passes reminds me of another thing I’m going to miss about this town when I finally take my leave in just a few short weeks. Today, while running through a list of every restaurant I’d reviewed in 2009, I found my March 18 love letter to Bones–Frank…
Santa brought a brand-new bar back to spruce up this classic dive. Can you guess where I’m drinking? Special bonus: Every Friday, anyone who gave the first correct answer to any of the week’s Where am I drinking/eating posts will be entered in a pool — and we’ll pull out…
Colt & Gray has been open just four months, but owner and exec Nelson Perkins had been working on the restaurant for years — in his head, mostly, or on paper. He brought on Brad Rowell, a buddy from C-school, to stand as chef de cuisine and then the two…
There are very few restaurants in (and around) Denver that do oval pizzas and serve them on wooden peels. This is one of those places. If you’ve been here, you’ll get this in a snap. If not, then you’ll have a new joint that’s definitely worth checking out in the…
Jerusalem knows Middle Eastern food. The family establishment at 1890 East Evans Avenue has been in business for over thirty years and the owners pride themselves on their bargain prices and freshly-made food. This goes for their dessert case, too, which is overflowing with buttery phyllo creations, honeyed cakes and…
Early last week, India House, the curry den at 1514 Blake Street, was seized for non-payment of taxes. But owner Ghugi Singh was able to cough up the $12,739.91 demanded by the state, which he paid in full to the Colorado Department of Revenue. “The business was released back to…
At this time of year, experts keep sending out seasonal survival guides. Local dietitian Suzanne Martin, for example, recently released her list of seven secrets for eating healthy during the holidays. Here they are — and my responses:…
As a countdown to the Best of Denver 2010, coming April 1, Cafe Society is serving up a hundred of our favorite dishes in Denver. Send your own nominations to cafe@westword.com…
Ah, the Christmas stocking. It’s an entirely essential object in the Christmas experience, yet its gift-bearing abilities are often misused and abused. Nothing is more annoying than the Santa whose stocking stuffer doesn’t even fit in the stocking. In the event that you’re one of these misfits, this final edition…
I’m going to miss breakfast burritos. I’m going to miss all breakfast burritos — the good ones, the bad ones, the great ones and every one in between. But most of all, I’m going to miss the breakfast burritos from the Santiago’s location on Leetsdale Avenue, which I consider to…
Last week’s Ask the Critic question about the worst food trends of the past decade morphed over into a formal list of the twenty worst crimes committed against cuisine since 2000 (or so). This week, we’re going in the other direction. This week, I’m all about the love and looking…
The clock is ticking. Every day that passes means one less day I’ve got in the three-oh-three. And I’m still looking for suggestions for the final restaurant I should review before I slink out for wetter, grayer climes. The rules: Any restaurant in the area counts, Denver or Boulder or…
I spent the majority of my weekend nursing a stubborn sinus infection, and since everyone believes they have the magic alcohol cure-all for these kind of ailments, I spent a fair amount of time ingesting liquids. I drank brandy and whiskey, bourbon and Baileys, beer and wine, and when those…
“Everyone is asking about the menu, but my main concern is that we have good quality food,” said Steve Abo when I spoke to him back in October about Circle, the new restaurant he opened this week at 1035 Pearl Street in Boulder. If Abo’s name sounds familiar, that’s because…
No time like now, just four days before Christmas, for those of you blessed with holiday bonuses to blow some of that wad on tickets to the annual Aspen Food & Wine Classic, one of the biggest culinary blowouts of the year.Tickets went on sale last week for the three-day…
I love mussels. They smell and taste like the sea — not the open ocean so much as a wharf. Mussels remind me of when I lived in Seattle and would just wander along the pier, soaking up sensations that were new and exciting to a boy born on a…
As a countdown to the Best of Denver 2010, coming April 1, Cafe Society is serving up a hundred of our favorite dishes in Denver. Send your own nominations to cafe@westword.com…
As most of you reading this already know, I am not long for this town. In a frighteningly short amount of time, I will be packing my bags and heading for Seattle, where a gig awaits me as restaurant critic at one of our sister papers, the Seattle Weekly. Still,…
