Okay, so the last place I ever expected to find a fantastic sandwich was at Montecito — the new restaurant from the Master family, open since December at 1120 East Sixth Avenue. Some great fish? Yes. Great apps? Absolutely — and constantly being tinkered with by chef Adam Mali. And…
Estillo Mexicano—those were the magic words at Tacos D.F. Mexican style: just spice and meat—rough-chopped grilled steak, marinated in God knows what, with caramelized onions in the case of the asada, and naked chopped pork, redolent of char for the carnitas. If you had to gussy up the tacos, there…
Via has had a tough run. In the summer of 2005, it took over the former home of Brasserie Rouge, whose sudden death is still spoken of in hushed tones by those in the industry — no doubt for fear of bottom-feeding lawyers overhearing the stories and then trying to…
By Thursday, the calls and e-mails had already begun — the complaints, the disputes, the polite thank-yous from winners and strange, ominous silences from those shut out of the Best of Denver 2007. In the interest of democracy and spirited debate, this year we’ve made it even easier for you…
The week after the Best of Denver 2007 is the perfect time to revisit Chama for a Second Helping. Why? Because at Chama, chef Sean Yontz proves that coming in second is not a bad thing. Chama has been a perennial runner-up since it opened almost eighteen months ago (“Dirty…
We’d been considering the “world-famous” Islamorada Fish Company Restaurant (7974 East 49th Avenue) for an Institute night, but it didn’t seem quite right for my birthday dinner. Islamorada is attached to one of my all-time favorite stores — but would I really want to eat there? That would be like…
That’s when James Mazzio left Colorado for Chicago, where he took on a chef’s gig for a restaurant that didn’t yet exist and spent a year waiting for its owner to get his shit together before giving up and coming home. And then what line did he walk onto? Via’s—with…
In the next Bite Me, you can read all about the rest of the Best of Denver. But in the meantime, I have a major correction on the Best Free Chips and Salsa. I gave the award to Los Carboncitos, which definitely has the Best Free Salsa. Just one problem:…
We can’t do this anymore.” “We can. I know we can make this work.” “We can’t. This has been a problem for too long.” I sighed. “Look. We’re both smart people. We’re college-educated grownups.” “Well, one of us is, anyway.” “We can figure this out.” Laura crossed her arms and…
Leigh Jones, owner of the Dish Bistro, is a bit nervous. Not seriously nervous, but a bit. “I think we’re ready,” she told me. “We’ve got a great menu, a great staff… I’m a real restaurateur now.” And frankly, she can hardly understand how it happened. Jones is late of…
Ode to a patio: I think that I shall never see/A patio as lovely when drinking Chablis. Or better yet, tequila. After the miserable winter we’ve endured, I’ve got the worst case of spring fever in the history of the world. While many people get out their Rollerblades, hiking shoes…
Have you ever felt really out of place? I’m not talking about the times you walked out of the can with toilet paper trailing from your pants, or even when, as a teenager, you had to skulk out of the classroom with your Trapper Keeper held low because at that…
Let’s agree from the start that no new incarnation of Lucile’s will ever compare with the first at 2124 14th Street in Boulder. The original has a kind of magic, a musty, irregular charm that can only be earned, never bought. That said, the Denver Lucile’s has only improved since…
At the end of a good night, I often have more takeout stacked in the front seat of my car than I can carry up the stairs in a single trip. Some of my to-go compulsion is work-related. When I need to know exactly what ingredients were in the ravioli,…
I have long held that Buffalo, New York — where I spent a few formative years of my cooking career — is a city unjustly labeled as a one-hit food town. Chicken wings, chicken wings, chicken wings, right? Nothing but deep-fried bird parts and snow. But this is wrong. Well,…
“Look, Rhumba was never a restaurant that I was fully, culinarily happy with.” That’s Dave Query telling me this. Dave Query, owner of the now defunct Rhumba (above), of the very much funct Lola and Jax and West End Tavern and Zolo Grill. Dave Query, who I took to task…
Here’s everything I ate at Red Tango in one sitting last week, an enthusiastic order so large that the dishes could not fit on the table at one time, forcing the kitchen to stagger courses, the floor manager to wonder aloud if six or seven more people would be joining…
While restaurants across the metro area were swamped by Denver Restaurant Week, I was wrapping up my Denver Restaurant Year, debating a few final picks for the very best eating in this town — everything from hot dogs and cheeseburgers to cassoulet and loup de mer — at restaurants big…
Life after death. I’m sure it’s no coincidence that the owners of Vita, the Italian restaurant that opened in part of the old Olinger Mortuary in December, named their place after the Italian word for “life.” The interior is certainly lively enough, with its exposed brick, dark wood, leather booths…
I don’t like Sundays. You always feel like crap on Sunday and are most likely regretting something from the previous night. Or regretting that you have nothing to regret. In high school, we used to congregate at five o’clock mass to collect church bulletins and prove that we had cleansed…
While South and Central American restaurants like Red Tango (see review) are just starting to get serious traction here, Denver has long been blessed with many fantastic Indian restaurants — and those Indian restaurants have been blessed with a very supportive and reasonably educated clientele. I can’t even count how…
Ceviche…fresh chips and chipotle salsa…empanadas and arepas con something-or-other with goat cheese…fried plantains, thick-cut and buttery, crisp at the edges and gooey in the middle. Plantains are hard to do even moderately well, and these were the best fried plantains I’ve had in Denver. Since I eat fried plantains everywhere…
