Another Taste of Denver

My recent musings about the archetypal Denver restaurant, “You Are Where You Eat,” inspired several people to send in their own tastes of Denver. Here’s the slightly ball-obsessed response from Christine Sipple: Well, you might be right — finding a restaurant that truly speaks to you in this city could…

There Goes the Neighborhood

Okay, so the rumors have been flying about some big shakeups happening at Mel’s in Cherry Creek, and I’m here to tell you that the bad news is true. I just got off the phone with owner Mel Master a few minutes ago, and he told me that Mel’s will,…

Disappearing Tomato

This Just In: Late word from Stephen Anson, who is now the ex-owner of Wholly Tomato up on the hill at 9th and Lincoln. On Wednesday, Anson announced that his two-year-old “healthy fast-food restaurant” was closed as of immediately, and that he’d been bought out by the guys from Deli…

US Thai

Here’s my problem with fusion cuisine: No white cook has ever learned how to properly use galangal. No black cook, either. Or Latino or Spanish or French or what-have-you. Or me. We’ve all tried it — experimented the way others might with smoking weed or light bondage — but none…

You Are Where You Eat

What’s your favorite Denver restaurant? Not your favorite restaurant in Denver, but that restaurant (or diner, cafe, bistro, drive-thru) that, for whatever reason, speaks to you about the city you call home. I’ll give you a minute to think. Okay, got one? Good. Now tell me why. Not so easy,…

Fadó Irish Pub & Restaurant

For those of you interested in ridding your frat party, wedding reception or bar of unwanted guests, the Institute can no longer recommend sounding the fire alarm. When I was in college, though, this was a highly effective method. We’d had to sneak into a frat party because the dirty…

Les Delices

Les Delices occupies what could be the most inconvenient location on Leetsdale, but on its best days, this is the best-smelling spot in the entire city of Denver. Walking into the warm, bright, well-scrubbed interior of the little pastry shop — which is decorated almost exclusively with the diplômes and…

Thai Time

Fusion is the devil’s cuisine. I’ve been saying that for a long time. And I’ve believed it ever since those dark days of my own forays into the seductive world of galangal, lemongrass and frisee. A chef has to be an absolute genius to make any sort of fusion work…

Up in Arms

I was surprised as anyone that I loved the Palace Arms, the Brown Palace’s most august restaurant. Here’s a recent letter on that review. Typical Sheehan. This article typifies why I read Jason’s stuff, why I look forward to his next crafted statements. When I read Sheehan, I want to…

On the Road Again

Chef Michel Wahaltere has parted ways with the owners at Seven Eurobar in Boulder. And though he didn’t go into a lot of details on the split, Wahaltere did tell me that his reasons were pretty simple. First, he wanted to create a restaurant — whereas the majority partner was…

Limón

On its very first day of business, Limón was a hit, a force to be reckoned with on 17th Avenue. Actually, from before its first day, because — as is the habit lately — Limón opened very soft, for friends and family, with no flags or fanfare, just an unlocked…

Room Service

Space soon won’t be an issue at Limón, because chef/owner Alex Gurevich recently closed a deal on the empty spot next door, clearing the way for a much-needed expansion. Slated for completion sometime in April, the new digs will buy Gurevich a hundred-odd more seats — almost tripling the current…

27th Floor

Heaven on the 27th floor? I can only imagine what it’s like to work in a hotel bar. On a good day, you’re dealing with some heavy hitter with a sizable expense account who, after being over-served, might over-tip with the company credit card. But on most days, you’re serving…

Rock Bottom

We are proud to announce the arrival of the newest member of the Institute of Drinking Studies: Nathaniel Arthur Osborn. In true Osborn fashion, he is extraordinary in his own way, with his current claim to fame being that he was technically premature yet large for gestational age at seven…

Save the Date(s)

All of you out there in Hotcakesland, take note: National Pancake Day is coming! And what, exactly, is National Pancake Day? Well, that depends on who you ask… If you want to take a historical view, this year’s National Pancake Day will be on Tuesday, February 20 — otherwise known…

Catholic Mailbag

This just in from Barb Wasko in Englewood, refering to my prattling on about Friday fish fries and the Pope in my recent review of the British Bulldog: Fish on Friday — boy, did that ever bring back some memories! Yes, I am a “recovering Catholic.” Grew up in Omaha,…

Aladdin Cafe and Grill

If I’d known what I was watching, I might have felt differently. But because I hadn’t the foggiest idea what anyone was saying, why things kept exploding every thirty seconds, or what the deal was with the dancing slice of pizza stopping traffic on the beautiful arabesque bridge, I loved…

End of an Era

Last week, the New York Stock Exchange celebrated its first fully electronic day — about a decade late. “Working on the trading floor used to be a test of physical endurance,” said Lisa Chow, reporting on the changes for WNYC. We all know the image, right? A floor crowded with…

Li Martini

I never imagined that Danny DeVito and I would have anything in common other than our adoration of George Clooney, but after seeing DeVito’s bad behavior on The View recently, I felt a kinship with him that I never expected to experience. “I knew it was the last seven Limoncellos…

Ling & Louie’s

Although last week’s melt helped, the overall number of traffic lanes in Denver is down about half from what it was in the summer. Many of the lanes carved out by cars/trucks are now fortified by ice, and driving outside the icy ruts is like taking a train off its…

Friends With Bennys

Snooze owner Jon Schlegel certainly has loyal fans — and family members. Today’s print edition includes a response to my January 18 Second Helping from Schlegel’s brother Adam, who works at the popular breakfast/lunch place. We also received the following from another relative who lives in Tucson: What’s Jason Sheehan…

A Smokin’ Deal

“Check it out,” I said. “The dancing pizza is back. Why do you think it’s wearing a top hat?” And with that, I begin this week’s exploration of Lebanese cuisine and Middle Eastern pop music at Aladdin Cafe and Grill — where the falafel is hot, the hookahs are smokin’…