Barfly Taxonomy: The Woo Girl and Yeah Bro

View larger specimen In order to make more sense of the world around us, illustrator and public house naturalist Nate Stone is compiling here a taxonomy of different barflies. While you’re out and about in Denver, if you spot any of these specimens please add your observations about their habitat…

Blowing Smoke

Like all purveyors of great barbecue, Hoss Orwat is a renaissance man, a fine storyteller and a little bit goofy in the head. I’ve never known a good pit man who didn’t come to barbecue sideways — who didn’t sneak up on it or stumble into it or (in the…

Big Hoss Bar-B-Q

I love fried cheese. Of all the things that man has invented over the course of history — the wheel, zombie movies, Gary Busey, the interweb — fried cheese has to be in the top ten. I mean, penicillin is great: You go to Thailand, drink a few too many…

Pama Pear Mojito

I love trying new places, so when a friend told me of a “great” restaurant near her home in the Denver Tech Center, I was willing to get on the highway and head down to my old stamping grounds. But as I walked in the door of Bonefish Grill and…

Uptown Tavern

Like many young smokers, I don’t mind the Colorado Clean Indoor Air Act — the smoking ban, as it were, that took effect in this state July 1, 2006. I recognize my filthy habit as a phase, one I will (hopefully) leave behind once I’m a parent and a full-fledged…

Woody’s Wings

At Big Hoss Bar-B-Q (see review, page 44), owner and Buffalo native Hoss Orwat does chicken wings – because every restaurant guy who’s ever spent time in Buffalo is bound by law and tradition to do chicken wings at his joint, no matter its official cuisine or location. But, being…

Big Hoss Bar Bar-B-Q, Home of the Man Flirt?

Next to me was a man old enough to know better drinking Jager shots with Guinness back, and when Green Bay made an ultimately pointless fourth-quarter fumble recovery deep in Giants territory, he found it reason enough to grab me around the neck and shake me like a kitten he…

Barfly Taxonomy: The Feathered Air Sucker

View larger specimen In order to make more sense of the world around us, illustrator and public house naturalist Nate Stone is compiling here a taxonomy of different barflies. While you’re out and about in Denver, if you spot any of these specimens please add your observations about their habitat…

Weitzman Makes a Move

A quick update on ex-Café Star chef Rebecca Weitzman’s New York adventure. When I checked out her work at Bobby Flay’s Bar Americain in Manhattan, I loved the food and hated just about everything else. Now I just got word that Weitzman has put in her notice and is once…

Jing

Driving through the new Landmark development in Greenwood Village is like moving through an incomplete Hollywood backlot. Eight out of ten storefronts are empty, but they’re varnished with promises: a salon here, coming spring 2008; a bar there, pledged for 2009. There are parking garages and street signs, lights in…

Denver Sandwich Bag

When I was talking with Michael Bortz about his new City Bakery (“From Z to A,” January 17), he went on a ten-minute tangent about Under the Umbrella, a coffee shop and cafe at 3504 East 12th Avenue, and how much he dug the place and its baker-owner, Jyll Tuggle…

Jack Daniel’s and Coke

Ohio Pete called early last Thursday. “What time are you getting to the Cowboy Bar?” he asked. “We were there yesterday,” I told him. “But we planned our trip because we met you there last year on a Thursday,” he whined. Too bad, Ohio Pete: There’s no postponing this cattle…

Little Ollie’s

My meals at Jing (see review) convinced me that the problems at Charlie Huang’s other restaurants come not from the rigors of cuisine or the classic chef’s tug-of-war between art and commerce, but simply from age and popularity. And in the interest of science, last week I stopped by his…

Charlie Huang’s New Creation, Jing

When the wind blows just right, kissing the exhaust vents on top of Charlie Huang’s new restaurant, Jing, all the oxygen on the street seems to be replaced, for just the space of a single breath, with the greasy, earthy, candied scent of garlic roasting, garlic frying, garlic oil gleaming…

Barfly Taxonomy: The Lonely Brow

View larger specimen In order to make more sense of the world around us, illustrator and public house naturalist Nate Stone is compiling here a taxonomy of different barflies. While you’re out and about in Denver, if you spot any of these specimens please add your observations about their habitat…

Ali Baba Grill

About twenty minutes into our first meal at Ali Baba Grill, I leaned across the table and whispered to Laura, “What’s the big deal? I just don’t get it.” For years, we’d heard glowing endorsements of this little Middle Eastern restaurant in a Golden strip mall from people who refuse…

From Z to A

Z Cuisine, the best thing to happen to Denver’s Frog-humpers and charcuterie addicts since the now-defunct Brasserie Rouge made its debut, has finally expanded — sort of. Last Thursday marked the opening of À Côté, chef Patrick Dupays’s homage to the Parisian wine-bar culture of the 1900s, at 2245 West…

Buddha Drop

I met Charlie Huang in a limo on the way to the Diamond Cabaret — which sounds a lot sleazier than it really was. A friend and I were drinking at the Funky Buddha when we met up with a group of guy friends who had a limo for the…

Satire Lounge

This could very well have been a story of anger and aggravation, a story about waiting fifty fucking minutes for a cab to arrive at my apartment in Five Points, a story about years of frustrated anticipation and irritation, a story that was really little more than a diatribe about…

39 Out of 40 Thieves Agree

How do you order right? I wish the answer were as simple as saying, “Order the simple stuff, forget the complicated” — or the reverse, “Order the authentic, the difficult to pronounce, and ignore the rest.” But at Ali Baba, it’s not that easy. This place has a learning curve,…

Ha Noi Pho

Every time I go to Ha Noi Pho, I stop for a moment in front of the doors and look at the hours, painted in white on the glass. They say the place opens at 8:30 a.m., but I’ve never made it here anywhere close to that early. In fact,…

Fun With Molecular Gastronomy

Shortly before New Year’s, I went back to O’s at the Westin Westminster with some of my most trusted dining compatriots, where we put away several bottles of Piper Heidsieck champagne and had chef Ian Kleinman (“Mr. Wizard,” October 25, 2007) cook us a mind-altering meal. I’d arranged this foray…