Pub Grub

Okay, there are two kinds of bar diners in the world: those who would rather eat and drink at Zang Brewing Co. (see review above), with its downscale, inexpensive food and harried, overcrowded setting, and those who prefer places like The Pub at Nordstrom, which serves upscale Continental fare in…

Kitchen Magician

There aren’t very many chefs who can take the night off and leave their restaurant in the hands of their employees — at least, not without worrying that the next morning, the kitchen will look like a food warehouse exploded and the answering machine will be filled with forty messages…

A Zero’s Welcome

After over twenty years in business, the Zang Brewing Co. just won the location, location, location lottery. The original Zang Brewing Co. belonged to Bavarian immigrant and would-be miner Philip Zang, who bought the failing Rocky Mountain Brewery after he failed to strike it rich in the gold fields. He…

Old-fashioned Goodness

Denver has several diner-style eateries at which the triumvirate of Mexican, American and breakfast foods reigns supreme. For starters, there’s the other Armatas joint, Newbarry’s, at 2995 West Jewell Avenue, where from 6 a.m. to 10 p.m. daily, diners can scarf down some of the same foods found at Sam’s…

What’s Old Is New

Turns out you can teach an old dog new tricks. But first you need to tame the beast with a new chef, a new location and even a new, improved name, like that of Basil Ristorante, now occupying the former home of the Parlour, at 846 Broadway. I first visited…

The Sons Also Rise

Like father, like sons. Although the Armatas boys tried career paths other than the one pursued by their dad and his dad, they knew it was futile. “We figured that sooner or later, we’d be in the restaurant business,” says Alex Armatas, the middle brother. “We all tried to do…

Phone Lines

Phone lines: My mention of cell-phone abuse in my review of Tres Margaritas (“Wasting Away in Margaritaville,” August 19) prompted many responses, including several vehement voice-mail messages and e-mails defending people’s inherent right to annoy the crap out of others. The issue is gaining momentum nationally, too: Local reporter Brad…

Get Lost

If I’d had a video camera, I could have filmed The Kitchen Bitch Project, and believe me, it would have been much scarier than that other movie. But there’s no footage to document the horror of my three meals at Lamonica’s Steak and Chop House. No, just several friends who…

When Bad Things Happen to Good Restaurants

At the beginning of this year, Jit Nabangchang, chef/owner of J’s Noodles, at 945 South Federal Boulevard, was in a terrible car accident that left her in a wheelchair and on respiratory support for life. She hasn’t been back in J’s kitchen since, and her staff, most of whom have…

Thai, Thai Again

It was broke, so they fixed it. If more restaurants were willing to change what doesn’t work, fewer would find themselves throwing in the kitchen towel. Case in point: Busara, the upscale Thai eatery at 1435 Market Street, has gone from barely making it to standing room only in the…

Wok, Don’t Run

The mystery of Asian food is that it looks so easy to make. What’s so tough about throwing cut-up vegetables, bits of meat and a few spices into a big, overheated vessel and cooking everything until it’s edible? But appearances can be deceiving, as recent meals at two newer Asian…

Recipe for Success

Recipe for success: And I thought no one was paying attention. So many readers have called to ask what happened to the recipes that I’m putting them back in — although they won’t run every week. Instead, you’ll find a recipe in Mouthing Off whenever I find a particularly good,…

Back on the Chain Gang

Bad guys can be rehabilitated. When I first visited Alcatraz Brewing Co. in what was then known as the Park Meadows “retail resort” (“Behind Bars,” September 9, 1997), the food and service screwups were almost criminal. The prison-themed eatery, which is owned by the same company as the California Cafe…

A Brush With Greatness

It was like an episode of This Old House: The Restaurant Version. When brothers Bill and Steve Rohs decided to open an eatery in a building across from Benedict Fountain Park on 20th Avenue, they first had to undo the damage done by the space’s previous restaurant tenant. “We knew…

No Bravo

No bravo: The idiots were out in full force during a recent stop at Rio Bravo Cantina, one of the many new restaurants that surround the Mann Chinese Theatre at Arapahoe Crossings. This is the first Rio Bravo west of the Mississippi — the chain originated in the late Seventies…

Wasting Away in Margaritaville

The waiter stood there expectantly, his pen hovering over the order pad as he waited for the woman to tell him what she wanted for dinner. All of a sudden, a noise that sounded like victory music from a kids’ video game rang through the dining room, and the woman…

For Pete’s Sake

When Pete Petrides Jr. was growing up, Denver’s dining scene was better than television. “I would go over to my dad’s restaurant and just sit and watch people, listen to their stories,” Petrides says. “This was back in the Sixties, and Colfax Avenue was a different sort of entertaining.” At…

Mouthing Off

Wine and dine: If an event like the International Pinot Noir Conference makes it sound as though these things are getting a little too specialized, well, it could be worse. At least I didn’t have to go to the International Pickle Fest in Atkins, Arkansas, last month. Instead, I found…

No Soft Sell

Restaurants have always been entertaining, even without the “concepts.” Nowhere else, for example, could you enjoy the delicious irony of a wave of water crashing down from a leaky awning over the group of people who founded Colorado’s Ocean Journey–as they sat in a seafood joint picking at crab carcasses…

A Family Affair

NoNo’s Cafe just celebrated its third birthday, and although the restaurant is growing up, it hasn’t grown away from its family-friendly roots. From the start, despite its location in a strip mall, owners Brian and Sonda Brewster wanted to make their cute little eatery feel like a home, complete with…

Mouthing Off

Goin’ to the Roadhouse: There’s no drink at Spanky’s Roadhouse (1800 East Evans Avenue) called the “Spanky Swank Me,” but the fifteen-year-old perennial DU hangout still serves one of the best milkshakes ($3.25) in town–Oreo fans will appreciate the cookie version–along with a great burger and the excellent bonus of…

Raising the Bar

Is Cafe Cero a bar, or is it a restaurant? After more than a year in business, Lynne Ida still can’t answer that question. “Okay, this definitely is not the place to come for a full-blown menu and sit-down experience,” she ventures. “Between 4 and 9 p.m., we’re dead for…