2nd helping

When Uncle Bobby comes visiting from Connecticut and college roommate Susie stops by on her way from Chicago to L.A., they always want to “experience” the Old West in a way that lets them return to friends and families and confirm that, “Yep, out there in Cularada, they eat that…

You Go, Girl

You can bet that while Wally and the Beav were washing up for supper, June wasn’t busy ripping the lids off to-go containers. And no way did Ward stop by the takeout market after a hard day at the office to pick up some ready-made pasta and sauce. Making dinner…

Check, Please!

Q: Where can I take Mom for brunch on Mother’s Day? A: Mother’s Day is one of the busiest (read: money-makingest) days of the year for restaurants, so many eateries that usually aren’t open mid-day Sundays plan to be come May 14. Rue Cler (5575 East Third Avenue; 303-355-3775) is…

Mouthing Off

Tom Sumner was wise to eschew typical Italian fare when he opened his Trattoria Stella, since Denver has more than its fair share of fair-to- middling red-sauce joints. And then there are those rare, old-time eateries that rise way above the rest, like Dardano’s, at 11968 West Jewell Avenue in…

Neighborhood Match

The 3400 block of West 32nd Avenue is a melting pot. A green-and-purple-painted bookshop shares the street with antique stores, the South American eatery Sabor Latino, a coffee shop, a purveyor of new-age paraphernalia, a liquor store, a clothing exchange, several burrito spots and an ugly apartment building framed in…

The Food Group

The sign taped to the back of the display case reads “fo-cosh-uh,” and Terry Williams glances nervously at it as the next customer walks up. She smiles when he points to a sandwich that’s been made with focaccia and says, slowly and carefully, “So you like that fo-cosh-uh, huh?” He…

Mouthing Off

Although Angelo’s has been around for 25 years, other joints in the area were tossing pies long before Angelo Laveo opened his eatery — and they still do. Claiming senior status is the Bonnie Brae Tavern, an outpost of culinary civilization when it opened in the ’30s at 740 South…

Season’s Greetings

In spring, some young restaurateurs’ thoughts turn to fancy creations they can make out of asparagus and baby peas. But the sophisticated 240 Union doesn’t stop there. Chef Matthew Franklin pulls from his extensive experience to create elaborate combinations that not only showcase what’s fresh and readily available, but also…

State of Reddiness

A big dish of spaghetti and meatballs smothered with a righteous red sauce — this was my idea of a collection plate. While legislatures debate whether the Ten Commandments should be posted in public schools or if Good Friday ought to be an official holiday, food remains comfortingly nondenominational. Everyone…

Check, Please!

Q: Where can a lacto-ovo vegetarian find a decent meal in this meat-crazed city? A: First, let’s make sure everyone knows that lacto-ovo means you eat dairy products and eggs — vegans (pronounced vee-gan) are the ones who eschew all food items that come from an animal source in any…

Mouthing Off

LoDo’s two new Mexican-oriented eateries replace a pair of long-timers that recently departed the scene. Shortly after Rio Grande moved into the neighborhood last year, Las Delicias, the third (and best) link in a homegrown chain that got its start in the mid-’70s, left its space on Blake Street when…

Tex-Mexican Standoff

Texan ambitions seem to be as big as everything else down there. In the last year, two groups of former Texans have opened Mexican-oriented eateries within six blocks of each other in LoDo, and both are as ambitious as they come. Although the restaurants feature different styles that may appeal…

Check, Please!

Q:Perusing French-restaurant possibilities in a recent issue of Westword, I was very dismayed not to find The Savoy, at 535 Third Street in Berthoud, on your list. As a French-born Denverite, I consider the Savoy the most authentic — and certainly the best — French restaurant in the area. It…

2nd Helping

When Sushi Boat was launched several years ago, a trip there was anything but smooth sailing. For starters, you had to find the funky little spot, tucked away on a side street next to the Marriott at I-25 and Hampden. Once you were inside, the setup was wonderful — a…

Mouthing Off

Since moving back into Denver, I’ve rediscovered the joys of living in a neighborhood. Specifically, I’ve rediscovered the joys of neighborhood eateries. Every time I drove past Peter’s Chinese Cafe (2609 East 12th Avenue), an institution in the Congress Park neighborhood for thirteen years now, the parking lot had been…

Good Fortune

Confucius say: Man who lay woman on ground, have piece on earth. By the time we cracked open this cookie, we were looking at the world through rose-colored glasses. And skull-shaped glasses. And flaming volcano glasses. In short, it had been another wonderful evening at Twin Dragon, and the smiling…

2nd Helping

You can always count on Imperial Chinese Seafood Restaurant. Among the things you can count on is that the food will be a mixed bag. During any given meal there, half of the dishes will be delicious and half astoundingly insipid. But the Imperial still has the nicest decor of…

Mouthing Off

Along Champa Street in downtown Denver, institutions are dropping like flies at a greasy diner. First the Changing Scene, the avant-garde theater that shocked audiences for thirty years at 1527 Champa Street, closed its doors at the end of 1999; Johnny’s Newsstand, at 1555 Champa Street, will be shutting down…

The Best Is Yet to Come

If you paint a sign on your restaurant window that reads, “The best there ever was. The best there is. The best there will ever be,” you’d better be prepared to back up that claim. And Sami Kraydie, owner of the four-month-old Sinbad that bears that sign, is ready to…

Check, Please!

Q: There was a recent column that mentioned pizza bread. Where can it be purchased and, more important, do they sell it retail? We moved here 28 years ago from New Jersey, and in the Berkeley Heights area we could buy pizza bread and make Italian hot dogs, which are…

Check-Out Time

One of the best things about a meal at the Table Mountain Inn (see review in this week’s issue) is that it’s hotel dining that doesn’t feel like it’s at a hotel; the food doesn’t taste like hotel food, either. And that’s pretty rare, although metro Denver does offer a…

The Inn Crowd

“I wish we’d never had kids,” announced the woman sitting next to us, as she poured the remaining half of her husband’s margarita into her glass. “God, it’s so good to be here without them.” Okay, so not everybody needs to get away as much as that couple, the parents…